Sustainable fish market is all at sea, claims report

UK supermarkets need to make it easier for the growing number of ethical consumers to buy sustainably sourced fish by improving labelling and ultimately removing unsustainable fish from the shelves.

That is the conclusion of a new survey published in consumer magazine Which? this week, which found that, while 70 per cent of those polled want to buy sustainably caught fish, a bewildering array of certification schemes make it difficult for shoppers to identify the most environmentally responsible options.

Of the six different labelling schemes identified by the survey, Which? recommended customers opt for products carrying the Marine Stewardship Council label that complies with United Nations guidelines on eco-labelling.

It also advised shoppers to be wary of dolphin-friendly labels, arguing they do not necessarily indicate sustainable fishing practices, as other unintended species may still be caught in dolphin-safe nets.

The report also found the phrase "line-caught" appeared on many of the products surveyed, despite the fact it was likely to confuse customers.

"You might assume that this means traditional pole-and-line fishing, but it can mean longline fishing where lines can be up to 100 miles long – the distance from Manchester to Newcastle," the report claimed. "The lines have thousands of hooks that make no distinction between targeted fish and other species."

The report is the latest in a series of studies to warn that some environmental labelling schemes are confusing customers and making it difficult to verify environmental claims.

However, Which? commended all the supermarkets surveyed for making some progress towards sustainability, picking out Marks & Spencer and Waitrose as the most advanced. Both stores stock only sustainably caught fish and clearly set out details of their sustainable fishing policies for customers.

Significantly, none of the retailers analysed stocked fish on the Marine Conservation Society's most vulnerable "fish to avoid" list.

Phil MacMullen, head of environment at seafood industry body Seafish, said the sector had made good progress in delivering sustainable-certified fish. But he added that it would be difficult to ensure all fisheries comply with sustainability standards. "Some fisheries don't lend themselves to the process, and others may not want to pay the often high costs of certification," he said.